2018 Menu: Gobo Upstairs @ Traders Hotel Kuala Lumpur

September 15, 2018

It's been a dozen years now since Gobo Upstairs served its first steak, and the restaurant keeps becoming even better. For full-bodied flavour and sheer succulence, Traders Hotel Kuala Lumpur's grill specialist has got a great thing going, making it one of the city centre's best venues for sinking your teeth into beef, poultry and seafood.

Gobo Upstairs was one of KL's earliest establishments to offer tomahawk steaks, which have become de rigueur across the Klang Valley. We've had many other excellent steaks here over the years (a tenderloin topped with French Livarot cheese in 2015 still lingers in our memories), so we naturally wondered whether the tomahawk would scale those same heights.

Curiosity calls out to the carnivores; in this case, our inquisitiveness was well rewarded with one of the most satisfying steaks we've savoured this year.

Gobo Upstairs' Australian Black Angus tomahawk weighs in at a whopping 1,500 grams, so it's certainly fit to be shared by at least two persons. Seasoned gently with a rub of sea salt and cracked peppercorn to let the purity of the meat shine, the behemoth of a steak is sliced by the table after being sufficiently rested, its rich crust yielding to that perfect medium-rare lusciousness within.

Each bite is convincingly layered with deep, robust dimensions of taste and texture; the house-made sauces on the side are scarcely needed, though having options such as the bordelaise sauce or Roquefort butter sauce adds engaging dynamics to the experience. Rounded out with fragrantly smooth mashed potatoes and fresh seasonal vegetables, this is another Gobo Upstairs steak that we'll vividly recall for a long, long time (RM816).

For patrons seeking lighter cuts, the repertoire here is extensive, spanning sirloins, rib eyes, prime ribs and more, not only from the 150-day grain-fed Black Angus range but an Aussie Wagyu Marble Score 7 selection too, with prices starting from RM103.

While the steak was the centrepiece of our visit, every other component of our meal assured us that Gobo Upstairs remains a relevant recommendation for a fine feast. Starters showcase a skillful sense of sophistication - vodka-cured salmon conveys elegant nuances, complemented by grilled asparagus, pickled shallots, and creme fraiche with caviar (RM44), while air-dried beef bresaola is beautifully harmonised with buffalo mozzarella, arugula, parmesan cheese, honey balsamic reduction and a lemon dressing (RM49).

Ranking high among the main course possibilities are the cod fillet, a lovely chunk of fish expertly baked to a moist but firm flakiness, marinated with miso honey, completed with elements of wasabi, bean curd and wilted romaine lettuce (RM129), and the tamarind-tinged duck, a triumph of lust-worthy tenderness with figs and roasted cashews (RM78); the latter might ideally be matched with a Chilean Merlot, one of many thoughtfully curated choices on Gobo Upstairs' wine list.

If you have room for dessert, the Cherry Bomm makes for a delightful conclusion, a visual treat that interpolates a white chocolate sphere with melted milk chocolate (RM30). It's easy to linger at Gobo Upstairs and difficult to finally leave; this welcoming space is a sanctuary amid the urban bustle. Many members of Traders Hotel Kuala Lumpur team have been here since its opening in 2006, a testament to their unwavering belief in this hotel and its facilities. We look forward to returning for many years to come.

Thanks to Gobo Upstairs for having us back.

Gobo Upstairs
Level 6, Traders Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Tel: +603-2332-9910

This feature first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

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