Pizza Mansion, Petaling Jaya
May 5, 2019
This new pizzeria might look like a humble hole-in-the-wall, but it's a chateau of crackly crusts, a manor for mozzarella and a palace of plum tomatoes. Could this be PJ's most pleasurable pizza? If the team here keeps things up, it might be safe to bet a Happy Mansion apartment on that.
This is wood-fired pizza that's terrific from the first bite to the final chew - every topping comes together, making each slice even more gratifying than the sum of its parts. Packs of custom-milled, soft wheat flour and hulking cans of preserved whole tomatoes from Lombardy and Puglia testify to the pizza parlour's committed passion.
Of the 10 pizzas on the menu, Big Brunch might be the crowd-rouser (RM32) - beef bacon, button mushrooms, roasted cherry tomatoes and baby spinach surface in perfect savoury-sweet proportions, shored up by spring cream and fior di latte for fresh milky notes, centred with a runny egg for sticky-fingered, hot-from-the-oven richness, bound on a base with lovely character, its flatbread-like suppleness speaking of an elastic dough, airy in the middle and increasingly crisp, subtly smoky to the edges.
Four meat-free pizzas are currently served; at least one is drop-dead delicious. Roasted peppers, zucchini, eggplant, chickpeas and chopped chives come together with garlic yogurt in mellow, earthy harmony, made a full-bodied pizza with a beautifully stretchy blend of mozzarella and aged parmesan, rounded out with romesco sauce that embodies luscious tomatoes (RM28). Splashes of Pizza Mansion's own herbaceous basil and spicy chilli oils offer a livelier, even more nuanced experience.
Note that Pizza Mansion is still in its soft-launch stage and might be closed for a day or two this month for renovation works. But the pizza here is well worth the persistence - we've visited this venue five times since mid-April; the first four times, the kitchen was closed because of dough shortages and oven refinements.
We'd nearly lost hope, but the fifth time, unexpectedly, turned out to be the charm; we'd had an earlier lunch by the time we visited but would otherwise have said yes to a few more pizzas - Say Cheese (featuring fior di latte, gouda, gorgonzola and Grana Padano) and the Pineapple Express (with smoked duck, slow-cooked pineapples and pickled chillies). The kitchen's clear-eyed attention to detail is such that these recipes have already begun evolving - the initial iteration of Say Cheese in April comprised completely different four cheeses (fresh mozzarella, goat's cheese, smoked scarmoza and aged parmesan).
BG3, Block B, Happy Mansion, Jalan 17/13, Section 17, 46400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Daily, 12pm-1030pm.
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