July 10, 2018
Comfort-fare kitchen Eatomo opens its third outpost this month, berthing in Bangsar after casting its net in Taman Desa and Solaris Dutamas over the past two years. If seafood floats your boat, you might have sailed into one of Eatomo's existing venues since 2016 for its fresh sashimi, poke bowls and mussel pots; but with its latest launch, the brand continues to spring new surprises that make us wish there could be an Eatomo in every neighbourhood. Bonus points to the Bangsar branch for its inviting sparkle, which includes hundreds of oyster shells lining the restaurant's main wall for a textured, theme-suitable feel.
Despite its seafood-focused origins, with its customers in Taman Desa stopping by for their fix of raw salmon and live oysters, Eatomo continues to expand its repertoire, with current group chef Wong executing several engaging ideas beyond the ocean. So for the first time ever, we're kicking off an Eatomo entry with red meat instead of seafood.
One of Eatomo's crowd favourites from the first day has been its wok-fired spicy gyutandon, blanketed with prime beef tongue fired up with a three-chilli shoyu garlic sauce. Now, brace yourselves for a pasta version - Eatomo's gyutan aglio olio (RM24.90) is tasty enough to become a success in its own right, with a base of al dente spaghetti tossed with the same meat and seasoning of the rice bowl, resulting in something so similar but very different, adapted with punchier, more concentrated dynamics in every twirl of your fork. A pasta for people who like big, bold, beefy flavours.
If you prefer sinking your teeth into pure, caveman-worthy meat, then check out the one Eatomo dish that's available only by advance order of at least one day: The seared whole lamb rack merits the extra effort, with seven to eight pieces of Australian or New Zealand meat, ideally cooked medium - at first bite, you'll encounter a robustly savoury exterior; the next chew reveals smooth, tender flesh, rich in its purity of flavour, a hearty indulgence for lamb lovers (RM128).
Bowls still command heaps of attention, whether they bear treasures of noodles - many of us are fans of eels and eggs, so of course, we'd order something that showcases both, like flame-broiled unagi and onsen sous-vide egg with thick, springy udon, house-made chilled dashi sauce, chopped nori and furikake (RM36.90) - or Hawaiian poke-inspired creations - the youngest addition to Eatomo's seven poke bowls is one with six pieces of Japanese scallops and all the creamy poke fixings (RM24.90) - or Japanese donburi-style rice concoctions, constructed with premium calrose rice, coming with toppings such as more hotate, shiitake mushrooms and halal-mirin onion shoyu sauce (RM24.90, with miso soup on the side). Eatomo's variety is wide-ranging enough that a customer could have a different bowl for lunch for nearly a month.
After two years, it's encouraging that Eatomo maintains the benchmark for quality that has satisfied its followers from the start - live Fine de Claire oysters, air-flown in twice a week, will always be the best way to kick off a meal at Eatomo. Finned fare totally hits the spot too, be it the grilled half-pound of sashimi-grade salmon with mashed potatoes (RM49.90) or the golden-battered fish and chips, featuring Pacific halibut fillets with gourmet U.S. fries and kitchen-made tartar sauce (RM32.90), each component handled with the kind of care, thought and effort that make Eatomo a restaurant we respect.
In the end, Eatomo Bangsar is a place to kick back with friends and family over good food that brings people together, epitomised perhaps by the repertoire of seafood pots for sharing, prepared to order in cast-iron containers. Choose your seafood - maybe a mix of black Chilean mussels, tiger prawns, clams, Pacific halibut and scallops, in a 1.25-lb or 2.5-lb portion - then pick a sauce (possibilities range from Belgian cream curry to Louisiana Cajun pan roast; for Eatomo's Asian pride, the Thai Coconut Chilli sees the seafood steamed in a sizzling sauce that conveys coconut milk, lemongrass and fresh lime); it's the ideal soulful rainy-night nourishment, with a few glasses of wine to keep spirits high.
Many thanks to Eatomo for having us back.
Eatomo Food Company
Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Mon, Wed, Thurs, 12pm-3pm, 6pm-1030pm; Fri-Sun, 12pm-11pm. Tel: 03-2202-3280