July 4, 2018
Now that Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur is finally open, its main magnet for restaurant enthusiasts might be Yun House, which seeks to celebrate Cantonese cuisine. There's a lot to like about this venue, from the bright, spacious setting that overlooks KLCC Park ('Ýun' means park in Cantonese) to the warm service that sets a lustrous benchmark for hospitality to the tastefully meticulous details in the decor, spanning the main dining hall to the private rooms galore.
When we visited on a Sunday, Yun House's dim sum lunch was a calm, composed affair, ideal for a leisurely meal with family or friends. As expected, the restaurant adds a dash of opulence to its dim sum, exemplified by steamed scallop dumplings layered subtly with foie gras (RM48 per basket). There's a twist or two in many classic preparations to keep things interesting, from crystal shrimp dumplings with fish roe (RM32) to mushroom and bamboo pith dumplings (RM38). Still, we couldn't shake the sense that these were sanitised versions, with some pleasure missing in the clean but clinical polish, resulting in flavours and textures that fall short of their potential; nuances such as the thickness of the dumpling wrappers could also be fine-tuned.
Nevertheless, a reasonably enjoyable meal can easily be had here; the steamed radish cake with dried scallops (RM21) and deep-fried spring rolls with shredded yam (RM21) are elegantly executed, with plenty of other temptations on the menu to make for a complete meal, from braised egg flat noodles with Boston lobster to steamed phoenix claws with abalone sauce.
For dessert, the raspberry snow skin dumpling is notable for its luscious stuffing, a satisfying medley of fruit and cream (RM28); the house-made almond cream is a tad too mild and one-dimensional, though it's effectively complemented by the black sesame glutinous rice dumplings (RM28).
Bonus points to Yun House for having a nice cocktail list to complement its cooking; refreshing highlights include the Power of CHI (RM50; Diplomatico Mantuano rum, ginger enzymes, lemon juice, dry ginger ale, angostura bitters) and Snap Pea (RM47; Citadelle French gin, Manzanilla Sherry, Angelique Vert Suisse absinthe, fresh green peas, lemon juice, East Imperial tonic).
Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Hotel Tel: 03-2382-8888