WBO at Rivertree Uno, Bandar Bukit Raja
September 11, 2022
If the magic of sourdough fascinates you, the new WBO at Rivertree Uno should be your next stop: WBO works wonders with its fermented flour mix, harnessing it not only to bake bread but make fresh pasta and fried chicken.
With a modern European bistro-inspired menu, WBO is all about comfort food created with honest produce and hearty preparations. Its sourdough bread brings a full-bodied bite, its sourdough pasta is smooth and tender, its sourdough fried chicken boasts a crisp, light batter.
WBO's founder Stephanie, an experienced restaurateur who's also a yoga instructor of 20 years, strives to serve her neighbourhood in Bandar Bukit Raja with fare that she herself loves, backed by conscientious chefs Alif and Farid in a bright, beautiful setting.
Fun fact: WBO stands for White Brick Oven, a familiar name for KL's longtime bread enthusiasts. It was originally a home-based baking business in Sungai Buloh; Stephanie has inherited White Brick Oven's brand and sourdough starter to embark on a new WBO chapter.
For fans of spacious eateries, WBO hits the mark, with a soaring ceiling over its site, a clean, white sight for sore eyes. Its wood-toned setting is comfortable for leisurely lunches, while its mezzanine upstairs will soon house a wine bar for elegant evenings.
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The ideal introduction to WBO is the Sourdough Toast, baked fresh daily in WBO's wood chamber - the heat from the fire furnishes a crisp crust with a captivating char. The toast is terrific in both texture and taste - it has a pleasant chew, bolstered by a mellow tang, mild smokiness and even a modicum of earthiness - bread that sourdough enthusiasts will enjoy.
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The toast also forms a tantalising base for a meat-free marvel of Vegemite, Avocado & Poached Egg Tartine (RM24) - this is a punchy open-face sandwich that isn't skimping on its toppings. The smashed avo is remarkably luscious, the Vegemite is robustly malty, rounded out creamily by the plump, runny-yolked egg; this could be our favourite avo toast of 2022.
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We rarely order Big Breakfasts, but WBO whips up a wholesome platter - the WBO Full Breakfast (RM29) showcases the sourdough toast that we'll always want more of, complete with eggs done your way (the omelette is impeccably indulgent), a chunky chicken bratwurst, gorgeously green leaves, sweet tomato and baked beans.
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The Tagliatelle alla crema Cozze (RM39) brings all the goodness of sourdough to long, flat ribbons in a rich caper cream sauce, protein-packed with prawns and mussels. Again, we're usually not fans of cream-based pastas, but WBO makes this seem (nearly) guilt-free.
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WBO's Sourdough Fried Chicken (RM28) is also a revelation, with the sourdough starter replacing commercial baking soda, giving a real rise to the chicken's coating of sourdough, seasoned flour and eggs. It's gloriously golden, with an airy, addictive batter that crackles confidently, harbouring the succulent, well-marinated meat. One piece won't be sufficient!
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Other staples of the European cookbook also shine at WBO - the Gambas al Ajillo (RM28), spicy garlic shrimp, would be the envy of a Spanish tapas joint, with sourdough toast to mop up the lip-smacking olive oil and garlic sauce.
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Italy is one of Stephanie's favourite destinations, so it's no surprise that she's personally created her interpretation of Tuscan Chicken (RM32), pan-fried chicken fillet in a cream of tomatoes and baby spinach, which tastes vibrantly of sunshine and summertime.
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We might not expect to see Pani Puri (RM25) here, but this is another of Stephanie's top temptations - WBO does it distinctively differently, in a unique ensemble of fried puff pastry balls stuffed with chilled avocado, sour cream and tobiko, upliftingly moreish, weaving together international inspirations with a flavourful flourish.
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WBO's selection of beverages is also thoughtful, especially its use of European organic tea.
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Open Monday-Tuesday, Thursday-Friday, 10am-9pm; Saturday-Sunday, 9am-9pm.