RokuNana Washu Bar, Solaris Dutamas

November 10, 2019

RokuNana is a convivial new destination for Japanese dining and drinking: Its focus might be on the spirits, but its food is no less noteworthy - head chef Vincent Lai harnesses two decades of experience in the craft of Japanese cuisine to lead a team that includes young Malaysian alumni of Le Cordon Bleu and Sunway University.

The seasonal fish tataki is a succulent surprise, elegantly embracing a subtly smoky citrus dressing, enlivened further with torch ginger flower and pear for captivating nuances (RM33). The menu may not be extensive, but everything we tried was a triumph, from fleshy fried baby fugu pufferfish, perfectly paired with a gentle hollandaise sauce (RM28), to tofu, lightly bruleed, with caviar, shallot oil and soy foam, rounded out with a herbaceous spring onion veloute, an admirable palate-awakener (RM18).

RokuNana's yakitori also intrigues, with an emphasis on texture, making these some of the most delicately juicy chicken skewers in KL (RM8 for liver; RM10 for bonjiri). Other possible highlights span sashimi and sushi to Japanese wagyu beef seasoned with Sarawak's Bario salt.

RokuNana is a shrine to sake, with temptations galore for devotees, including some labels possibly unavailable elsewhere in Malaysia. The bar's manager and certified sake sommelier, Gino Lin, is on hand to suggest a suitable bottle - our Takijiman Ginjo (RM116 for 300ml) proved a lovely, light-bodied match for our meal, with a fruit-forward liveliness.

RokuNana Washu Bar

D5-G3-2, Solaris Dutamas, Outside Publika, Jalan Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur. Open Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am. Tel: 016-296-3777

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