Ora Dining, Taman Tun Dr Ismail

TTDI's new Ora takes commendable risks in its modern European-inspired cooking, resulting in memorable renditions of classics like terrifically tender beef tartare, complete with hot, thick crumpets instead of crackers.

Pastas are the highlight - the gorgeous gnocchi is achingly light and fluffy, loaded with fresh, firmly fleshy tiger prawns and New Zealand green mussels, while the paccheri hits the spot for taste and texture, layered with luscious Australian lamb, saturated with the sweet and savoury of 10-year tangerine skin and Parmigiano Reggiano.

The five-day dry-aged chicken would be lip-smacking on its own, smooth and succulent with a clean, confident flavour - it's intriguingly cushioned with soft, stretchy mochi, but saffron beurre blanc sauce suffocates the platter with overbearing richness.

Don't skip dessert - the Black Forest tiramisu, generously brimming with whiskey cherry, and the Madagascar vanilla parfait, underpinned by the umami of Saikyo miso, nori and Ardoino olive oil, point to plenty of potential here.