Monroe, KLoe Hotel

Monroe's beef char siew is bovine beauty in a bowl, nectarously caramelised after being slow-roasted over open charcoal, lusciously layered with a lacquered glaze, with a fatty-fleshy sweet-savouriness that makes this Aussie beef nearly as satisfying as Cantonese barbecued pork. Paired with a soft, wobbly-yolked egg and santan-scented rice showered with aged onion balsamic, this is a lunch worth bookmarking in the city centre (RM34). One minor quibble: The meat bears subtle alkaline undertones, perhaps the result of tenderising.

Don't sleep on Monroe's breakfast, which showcase more than a twist or two.

Salmon in a croissant with eggs might sound stereotypical, but every component here is elevated - the slick, fresh-and-firm fish is cured with lavender and Earl Grey tea for extra-aromatic allure, a gravlax-like treat paired with pickled onions in buttery-flaky pastry, bolstered by creamy-silky, cheesy free-range eggs (RM24).

French toast, created to be custardy, is made notable by its accompaniments - sweetly ripe bananas, coconut yogurt, a house-made berry preserve and Gula Melaka-laced butter (RM26).

Wash down with your choice of espresso-based coffee or local Malaysian kopi, both enriched with condensed milk.

Service is warm and helpful.