La Moon, Taman Tun Dr Ismail

February 14, 2019

By Aiman Azri

A sighting of cockle curry at a Thai restaurant in KL can only mean one thing: Chef Trakool 'Korn' Yodsuk, formerly of Erawan, must have had a hand in the menu. His latest venue, La Moon, sets a picturesque stage for creative Thai cuisine that totally pampers the palate - these cockles, for one, are fabulous, triumphant in both taste and texture, briny-sweet and luscious, buoyed by an aromatically note-perfect curry that seems created for cockles, as well as herbaceous cha-om acacia leaves more typically seen in Thai omelettes. Even with more than thirty cockles in this bowl, we would happily have had a second helping (RM38).

La Moon's name is an abbreviation of a Thai phrase that essentially means 'delicious' - that's certainly no lie when it comes to the cooking here; the fresh-from-the-cob corn is another sure-fire winner, heaped with salted egg and cashews in a spicy-sugary papaya salad dressing for a harmonious medley of ingredients that sings and dances (RM30). The secrets to the kitchen's success are actually self-evident: A sharp imagination for how to most effectively play with diverse culinary components, coupled with a reliance on best-quality produce and masterful techniques honed through experience.

Juicy-crunchy chunks of rose apples come with a dense paste of dried shrimp, roasted coconut and palm sugar; both the lively fruit and the robustly savoury paste would be en-Thai-ly enjoyable on their own, but their union is another case of the whole being invigoratingly greater than the sum of its parts (RM25), washed down with soothing house-made beverages that Thai tea lovers should try, tinged with the likes of honey and lemongrass (RM10 each). We'll be back for more, from the watermelon with salmon floss to the fried rice with foie gras.

La Moon
Ground Floor, Greens Terrace, Jalan Wan Kadir 3, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
Open 12pm-930pm; closed Mondays. Tel: 012-289-5575

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