Gesuto, Taman Tun Dr Ismail

November 20, 2019

With a name that's Japanese for 'guest,' Gesuto guarantees Nihon-inspired sparks galore in its modern-minded menu: Salmon sashimi embraces elements of Peruvian ceviche with lime and leche de tigre, the citrus-based 'tiger's milk' marinade, buttressed by the briny umami of nori tempura and house-smoked ikura for a lively, well-rounded starter (RM26), while gyoza showcases a smooth chicken mince, subtly nuanced with goma oil, candied ginger and aged ponzu (RM15; add on RM45 for foie gras to make this more richly memorable with a French flourish). Beef katsu sando secures the luxe treatment too, with the sheer succulence of breaded Aussie wagyu MB7, near the pinnacle of marble scores, sandwiched in buttery brioche (RM70).

Larger plates include the irresistible fresh-cut pappardelle, al dente and robust with seaweed, truffle paste and Parmigiano-Reggiano - the bonus is the bright-hued, brilliantly creamy yolk at the plate's centre; according to the restaurant's friendly crew, the eggs are farmed in Malaysia according to Japanese techniques, so the menu lists them as "Japanese egg yolks" (RM45). For a fowl-mouthed meal, the smoked duck is also worthwhile, full-bodied and fleshy, tinged with notes of tea and hickory, coupled with togarashi-spiced cauliflower puree (RM55), complemented perhaps with a gin-based cocktail like You Turn Me Green Tonight, exuberantly aromatic with matcha and shiso leaves (RM38).

Gesuto KL

24, Lorong Datuk Sulaiman 1, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Open for dinner, Monday-Saturday. Tel: 03-7732-8808

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