Ebisu, Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur

January 10, 2019

Ebisu exudes elegance, blending a traditional sense of zen with timeless strains of style, spread throughout the spacious eighth floor of the new Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur. Classic Japanese cuisine is the cornerstone of this restaurant, crafted by a team whose maestro, Ricky Kamiishi, ranks among KL's most respected veteran chefs. Kamiishi settled in Malaysia nearly three decades ago and has led the kitchens of the capital's top Japanese eateries for a full generation; he brings that wealth of experience to a selection that spans the breadth of his homeland's gastronomic arts, from sashimi to sushi, teppan to tempura.

Ebisu's repertoire is extensive, enabling customers to explore everything from uni sushi and wagyu fried rice to grilled Hiroshima oysters and Hokkaido scallops within a single sitting. But it's also worth leaving your experience to the kitchen's determination - omakase meals can be booked in advance, promising course after course of the freshest, most fulfilling fare.

Our prelude to dinner comprised a duet of marinated cod fish alongside sesame-spiked tofu with seasonal black beans and sweetly luscious sea urchin, their distinct flavours fanning our appetites. The ensuing sashimi platter kept the momentum climbing, a beautiful bonanza of the ocean's opulence - sea bream to salmon belly, scallops to shrimp, akami to chutoro.

Bringing together produce from the land and the waters, the teppan platter is a triumph of taste and texture - Japanese-bred A5 wagyu beef, sumptuous and succulent, with black cod, buttery and velvety, perfectly cooked to preserve their prized characteristics. Even a seemingly simple chawanmushi is immaculate, its eggy richness enhanced with briny bursts of ikura. 

The sushi course supplied the most memorable surprise for this meal, with the raw fish marinated for an umami-heavy punch in each slickly smooth slice. Miso soup, alluringly aromatic, warmed our hearts, while a trifecta of matcha, yuzu and goma ice cream cooled our palates, for a satisfying conclusion to this meticulously prepared feast filled with deliciously thoughtful details.

Steaming-hot chawanmushi deserves a companion of ice-cold cocktails: Ebisu boasts no fewer than four invigorating potions exclusive to this restaurant, each well worth sipping on, from fruity concoctions like the Red Koshu (a Sangria-like speciality of red wine with brandy) and Orange Cassis (creme de cassis with orange liqueur) to Cointreau-laced creations like the Kyoto (Stolichnaya vodka with creme de cassis and fresh lime) and the Ganbatte (Finlandia Lime vodka with Midori and fresh lime).

Many thanks to Ebisu for having us here.

Level 8,  Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur Managed by Banyan Tree, 170, Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 12pm-3pm, 630pm-11pm. Hotel Tel: +603-21172888

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