The Klang Valley's latest pizzeria tempts us with two distinctively different genres of pizza - the Italian-inspired, wood-fired classic and the New York-style staple that can be ordered by the slice.
At Big Brooklyn Pizza's foundation is a passionate chef's commitment to quality, underscored by the ingredients. Italian flour for the dough, with finely ground 00 flour for the wood-fired and a higher-protein flour for the other to support its toppings better. Predominantly locally sourced produce for those toppings, including aged pepperoni and mozzarella. Hand-crushed Roma tomatoes for a rich, sweet and fresh house-made sauce.
Our heart belongs to the wood-fired variety, currently enjoying a renaissance in the Klang Valley.
Big Brooklyn's wood-fired crust is thicker than the Neapolitan norm, on the edge and toward the middle, though still supple and tender, the result of dough that's been cold-fermented for 48 hours. It yields a satisfying, substantial chew and bears the weight of relatively heavy, very cheesy toppings.
The smallest serving for these is the nine-inch, perfect for a personal pizza that you can savour immediately from the oven, feeling the comforting heat flowing from each bite.
The Margarita piles on the mozzarella and tomatoes with gusto, complete with basil for the basics (RM18 for the nine-inch). While that's often the standard-bearer, we prefer the Pepperoni here, thanks to the chunky beef salami that's a few notches above mass-manufactured versions, with a mellow, more natural savouriness and fleshier texture (RM24).
These pizzas cater to Malaysian preferences for loaded, layered toppings that could be a meal on their own even without the base. While lamb meatballs might not sound like a noteworthy topping, Big Brooklyn Pizza's is, succulently crafted with lamb leg for a full-bodied meaty flavour, subtly brightened with oregano and chilli (RM26).
We like pretty much all the wood-fired pizzas, including the Grilled Chicken with orange segments that convey an uplifting, citrusy juiciness (RM22) and the Mixed Cheese, with its robustly balanced blend of mozzarella with the pronounced pungency of blue cheese and the earthy creaminess of camembert (RM24).
With a mural of the Brooklyn Bridge in the backdrop, it's clear that the restaurant's main highlight for many would be the American-influenced pizzas, true to its name. These can be ordered in 12-inch and 18-inch sizes, with 18-inch slices to be sold separately soon too.
The Pesto Mushroom & Spinach pizza is fulfilling even for non-vegetarians, with plenty of portobello and shiitake on it, balsamic-drizzled for a confident, competent pizza (RM33). Not wood-fired, this crust is more typical of familiar, less fragrant bases for casual, fuss-free pizzas, but it does its job perfectly well to ensure a enjoyable eating experience.
You'll also find other American favourites here to complement these pizzas, from burgers with Big Brooklyn's own brioches and patties to mashed Russet potatoes with roasted garlic.
Big Brooklyn Pizza
74, Jalan SS15/4D, SS15 Subang Jaya, Selangor. Daily, 11am-10pm.