Villa Danieli

July 10, 2011

The future belongs to the young: Villa Danieli recently welcomed a 24-year-old head chef from Turin to help shake things up a little.

It's always a joy to step back into this inimitably charming eatery; this was KL's first Italian outlet that I truly fell in love with, probably eight years ago.

Amuse bouche of chicken with cauliflower mousse.

Asparagus risotto with demi glace reduction. Perfectly firm rice, with a rich taste and an almost nutty texture. Might have worked even better with some scallops on top.

Herb-scented potato gnocchi with seasonal veggies. Based on these few savory recipes, the new chef _ Simone La Gamba _ favors authoritatively aromatic flavors that really stand out but might become a bit overwhelming after awhile.

Desserts have long been Villa Danieli's forte, and the current offerings maintain that tradition. This chocolate & peanut butter semifreddo with berries compote was creamy and dreamy.

Classic tiramisu. One of KL's finest non-alcoholic versions _ moist but not mushy, with a complex sweetness that proved intoxicating in its own right.

Things got even better with these two other tiramisus: Barolo wine-poached pear & caramel-walnut. Customers should slowly and lovingly savor both of these, allowing the blend of beautiful flavors to reveal themselves and percolate on the tongue.

A wine tasting flight: Semillon Chardonnay, Lindermans Premier Selection, Australia; Chardonnay, Penfolds Koonunga Hill, Australia; Sauvignon Blanc, Villa Maria Private Bin, Marlborough, New Zealand.

Previous entry on Villa Danieli: Oct. 12, 2009.

Villa Danieli,
Sheraton Imperial Hotel,
Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.