The Pantry @ Lorong Kurau, Bangsar

February 1, 2016

Here's one pantry that may be worth raiding: Lorong Kurau's latest restaurant radiates a relaxed charm that remains true to this Bangsar street's halcyon neighbourhood sensibilities, while tackling a contemporary cookbook's canon of free-range baked eggs tinged with truffle oil & Maldon sea salt, herbed quinoa salads with pomegranate molasses, & togarashi-spiced soft-shell crab sliders with gochujang aioli, plus plenty of bread & pastries baked right here at this laundry-shop-turned-eatery.

The Pantry's menu is made for indulging, constructed for customers who refuse to count calories or watch their waistlines. We enthusiastically devoured the duck confit burger, comprising moist meat layered with cheddar cheese, wild rocket, tomatoes, pickles & onion marmalade, sandwiched between a sliced soft brioche bun, with irresistibly crunchy duck crackling on the side (imagine crispy pork lard, but in bigger, even more satisfying chunks) & a substantial serving of sweet potato fries (RM33 nett).

For your protein fix, the salt beef & cheese crostini could be a popular choice, coupled with cornichons & Dijon mustard on house-made classic sourdough bread (RM25; prepared to order & paired with a salad or sweet potato fries). But our weakness for fried chicken forces us to favour the boneless buttermilk-cooked chicken for its confidently flavoursome juiciness, the thick batter shattering scrumptiously at each bite (RM29; with fries & kitchen-assembled coleslaw with walnuts & dried cranberries).

Desserts range from the elaborate - French toast brioche brulee with passionfruit curd, freeze-dried raspberries, coconut flakes & gula melaka caramel (RM19) - to the elementary - rose & raspberry-glazed croissant (RM10) - each fulfilling in its even-handed flavours & textures. There are reasons to order the coffee - it's capably executed, & part of the proceeds from every cup is channelled to the SUKA Society children's advocacy group. Wine is not available, but there's currently no corkage fee.

The Pantry KL
9 Lorong Kurau, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur. Soft-launch business hours: Tues-Sun 830am-530pm (but open Monday, Feb. 1)

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