Sushi Soul is a surprisingly solid entry to KL's increasingly crowded landscape of omakase establishments.
At first peek, the restaurant seems to rely heavily on theatrics, with ever-changing still-life scenes of Japan screening behind the sushi counter. The first courses showcase the razzle-dazzle of fire and fog, including chawanmushi with foie gras and truffles in a glass egg. But everything comes together, thanks to talented young Malaysian chefs who've trained under Japanese veterans.
Sushi Soul currently dedicates one chef to each party of patrons - from start to end, our meal was prepared in front of us by chef Patrick, whose clear-eyed understanding of the ingredients and meticulous care for technique made this dinner a delight. Service shimmers with genial warmth and gentle efficiency.
For dinner, the most comprehensive menu totals RM728++, with a RM130++ surcharge to upgrade one hot dish to Miyazaki A5 wagyu tenderloin.
From raw to cooked, the selection hits plenty of scintillating seasonal highlights, from shirako to sashimi of hokkigai and kinmedai, yuzu-dressed ankimo to wasabi leaf-marinated akami (Sushi Soul flew in a whole bluefin tuna to be sliced at its launch).
Sea urchin is served in distinctive style, in its spiny glory, with crisply grilled nori sheets and vinegared sushi rice, for DIY.
The sushi proves satisfying, spanning delicately marinated saba to botan ebi topped with its briny brain and crushed shell dust, crispy-scaled torched rockfish with sudachi to four-hour slow-cooked abalone. There's definitely thought and effort poured into each piece, served on nicely warm shari.
Our meal wrapped up well - a Hokkaido snow crab mini don, anago soup, and dessert of hand-churned hojicha ice cream and mirin-sweetened plum with five-spice, brown sugar, nutmeg and whipped cream left us with a positive impression.
Wisma Chuang, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 016-609-7723