Sanook Thai Cafe @ Taman Desa

This recently opened eatery in Taman Desa could be the closest thing to an inner-city Bangkok hole-in-the-wall that folks might find in this KL suburb.

Frills-free porky fare supplies the fanfare: Start with a salad of laab moo (RM8), the northeastern Isan minced pork recipe that sets off spicy-sour-savory fireworks.

 Nem house-made pork sausages (RM9) with ginger & chili sauce. Serving sizes are small, helping Sanook charge seemingly low prices.

Love crispy pork belly? Order the moo krob (RM12) maybe, rustically deep-fried ...

... or mixed with kapi shrimp paste (RM14). Beware: The menu heres a showcase of sin, irredeemably soaked in sodium & oil, which could turn off customers looking for lighter nuances.

 Green curry with pork (RM8). The remainder of Sanooks selection comprises soul-food staples like som tam, pad thai, tom yum & kai jiao omelets; this isnt the type of outlet where the cooks strive to shock & awe or show off madly inventive skills.

Complete the Thai street-fare experience with Singha beer (Changs available too).

 This small space gets crowded fast; we entered a near-empty cafe but exited a bustling one an hour later with most tables occupied. Thanks to Justin for pointing out this interesting nook to us.

Sanook Thai Cafe,

13, Faber Plaza, Jalan Desa Jaya, Taman Desa, Off Old Klang Road, Kuala Lumpur.

Open for lunch & dinner, closed Tuesdays. Same row as Maruhi Sakaba.