Little Bing, Sri Petaling
April 3, 2019
Yambitious: Reflecting and revamping Teochew culinary traditions, Little Bing's big temptation is its pot of fish with yam, bean curd skin and mushrooms, swimming in a milky broth with a nuanced stock blended from fish, chicken and pork.
The fish is fresh, flaky and moist, while the refillable broth is soulful and soothing - the grouper is a safe bet (RM88 for a substantial, steaming-hot serving that two patrons can savour for a supremely filling meal), alongside other options like red snapper and tiger grouper, available in various portion sizes.
The cooking here draws from Malaysian chef Heng's three decades of experience (with more than 20 years spent in Singapore's hotel sector), ranging from pan-fried banana prawns with Sarawak black pepper to braised pork belly with red rice sauce to fish steamed in house-made sauces that span superior soy sauce to spicy Nyonya sauce.
If you're having the fish pot, you could bookend your meal with another Teochew-inspired, yam-laced dish by ordering a dessert of sweet yam paste with pumpkin and coconut sauce.
Single-plate rice meals are offered for lunch and dinner - try the Hakka-style minced pork cake laced with salted fish, complemented with pork lard, egg and vegetables (RM15); the crunchy lard is lovely enough that you might even want to have an extra bowl of it with soy sauce and rice (RM6).
To balance out all that vice, bring in some virtue for your beverage with a carafe of chilled beetroot juice (RM19.90; worth six glasses).
3 & 5, Jalan Radin Bagus, Bandar Baru Sri Petaling, 57000 Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-9054-0780
Open Mon-Thurs, 1130am-230pm, 530pm-10.30pm; Fri, 1130am-230pm, 530pm-12am; Sat, 1130am-3pm, 530pm-12am; Sun, 1130am-3pm, 530pm-10pm.
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