July 26, 2018
Seeking to bring the feel and the flavours of Jonker Street to the Klang Valley, this new restaurant's Nyonya founder Lily Tan and her team offer plenty of Malaccan-inspired crowd-pleasers. It's one of the few places in KL and Selangor where you'll find both chicken and pork versions of pongteh on the menu, reasonable-tasting enough if you need to fix that fierce hankering for pongteh. The smallest serving costs RM18, with each claypot generously loaded with chunky meat, potatoes and mushrooms - our preference is for the hong bak braised pork interpretation, fleshy and fatty.
The kitchen also dishes out Malacca's well-known novelty of chicken rice balls (RM28 for half a bird with five big rice balls). It's a solid portion, though the rice could be fine-tuned for more satisfying fragrance and richness.
Speaking of novelties, the D24 Chicken might not be traditionally Nyonya, but it could potentially fit into a contemporary Peranakan cookbook, with each slice of crispy chicken coated in a thick, mellow durian paste (RM50). Have it perhaps with some starch - the herb-spiked Nyonya fried rice with prawns hits the spot for a lunchtime indulgence (RM12).
Grand Nyonya Restaurant
5-1, Jalan Equine 10c, Taman Equine, Seri Kembangan, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 12pm-3pm, 6pm-1030pm. Tel: 017-777-7134
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