Gooddam, The Hub SS2
December 9, 2018
By EDKL Writer A.A.
The menu at Gooddam ('Dam' combines the first letters of Daniel and Miki's names) is a welcome relief for Malaysian customers seeking more ambition and adventure in an Italian restaurant: Start with Gooddam's own pizzelle, with lusciously bruleed liver mousse blanketing the crunchy, house-baked waffle cookie (RM18), hand-pressed slices of sopressa, classically coupled with melon (RM18), and Daniel's buoyant take on bagna cauda, spooning the warm, smooth anchovy sauce - prepared here with hints of banana for sweetness - over a plate of freshly grilled local cabbage shoots (RM30).
Feel-good fare takes to the forefront for the main courses, from Gooddam's own-made, yolk-reliant tajarin pasta tossed with bits of crispy guanciale and toasted hazelnuts, a homey recipe that Nonna would approve of (RM42), to risotto with Pecorino cheese, deep-fried fennel, baby fennel and fennel leaves, with a Southeast Asian twist, soulfully crafted with Bario rice, black rice and glutinous rice (RM38).
Porcine pleasures also rule, executed to an expert precision - the ribollita bean-and-vegetable stew is cooked with cured pork fat for a flavoursome richness (RM30), while the pork shoulder is rounded out by a meticulously curated ensemble, glazed with gula Melaka, crowned with fried fermented napa cabbage, partnered with in-season chestnut puree, a milky mortadella sauce, and parsley stems that ensure no edible part of the vegetable goes wasted (RM65).
Desserts are a delight, a harmonious, homegrown pairing of admirable produce with accomplished technique - the chocolate ice cream is constructed with Pahang-cultivated single-estate cacao by Chocolate Concierge, layered with chocolate-braised pear, sprinkled with the magic dust of buah keluak powder (RM34), the sweet corn semifreddo is a textural triumph with mascarpone cream and honey crumble (RM30), and the salted coconut panna cotta makes for a memorable conclusion, compellingly nuanced with santan-strong snow, roselle jam and pandan oil (RM30). The interplay of ingredients is impeccable.
Italian aperitifs, wine and digestifs are available to accompany your dinner from the first to the finale: An Aperol Spritz (RM32), Campari (RM32) and Limoncello (RM32), followed by a Romagna Chardonnay (RM28) and Tuscan Chianti (RM30), closed out by grappa (RM20) and Vin Santo (RM25).
Lot B-G-07, The Hub SS2, 19 Sentral, Jalan Harapan, Seksyen 19, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Currently open for dinner, 630pm-10pm (closed Tuesdays). Tel: 010-7669708
This feature first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com
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