Flint @ Persiaran Ampang

May 12, 2016

Flint resets the conversation for where to eat in Ampang - this is one of our favourite destinations so far in 2016, representing another triumph for the Vintry family of restaurants. The sister outlet to Medan Damansara's Stoked is similarly focused on smoky, sultry cooking, but with a no-pork pivot that spotlights a heftier range of red meat, poultry & seafood. This warm-toned, welcoming venue marks a metamorphosis for Persiaran Ampang's long-entrenched Vintry outpost, recast as a rustic two-storey retreat with a hunting-lodge motif, complete with witty game-animal portraits & even a play section for kids. Local acacia firewood sets the scene around the open kitchen & bar, destined for charcoal-&-kindling ovens that produce the dishes ahead.

With Sinatra crooning on the speakers, chef Meg Lee (returning to KL after stints in Colorado & Wyoming) & her team perform their magic with two British-built instruments, a Bertha cast-iron oven & a Drumbecue oil-drum barbecue smoker, each designated to work best with specific produce. Start with seafood - a sourdough tartine blanketed with light-&-crispy white shrimp, pickled vegetables & remoulade (RM30), baked oyster (RM13) & cioppino-style stew (RM40) - sterling illustrations of how a masterful restaurant stamps its mark on fresh & attentively selected produce to assemble recipes with nuance & depth.

Scrupulous sourcing is a cornerstone of Flint - the restaurant's free-range chicken comes from Perak's Tanjung Rambutan town, chosen for a firm bite & bold flavour that remind Flint's founders of French-bred poultry. Pepper originates from even farther - Flint promises no fewer than four different peppers (!) from across the globe: Wild Voatsiperifery, Nepali Timur, Cambodian Red Kampot & Cameroon Penja Valley Black. It's further vivid evidence of the mindfulness to detail here; each fragrant pepper conveys a delicate & distinctive embellishment to its dish, some a touch sweeter, others a hint spicier.

If you have time for only one order, make it beef - Flint stakes a claim as a compelling recommendation for folks in the throes of hot-blooded bovine lust. The oven-smoked roasted Wagyu beef brisket (RM58) is sensational, almost unbearably rich in its sheer, stunning succulence, slow-cooked on embers for half a day. Come hungry to also enjoy the Aussie Angus rib-eye (RM111 for 350g), pure primal pleasure, ambrosial in its benign char & soul-affirming juiciness. And if you want more, the house-made tagliatelle with spiced Wagyu brisket ragu (RM40) is heaven-sent for pasta worshippers - we devoured every bite.

Lamb, fish & vegetables all also prove exceptionally bingeable - the lamb shoulder with beans & apricot is an achingly tender braise, pulsing with robust dimensions of meaty flavour (RM76), while the grilled whole baby threadfin (RM58) is pretty much everything we could desire or demand of a fish. Flint also offers an exemplary selection of seasonal specials - we couldn't resist having the pumpkin risotto with snow peas & chilli, comfortingly creamy & naturally nectarous (RM30) - & side dishes - herb-roasted chat potatoes, hand-cut sweet potatoes, sauteed mixed vegetables & spiced charred cauliflower, unflinchingly consistent in their textural profiles to complement the main meals (RM14 each). 

Even at our fullest, it'd be foolish to forego Flint's desserts - we'll tilt toward ordering both the Rocky Mountain orange brownies with hazelnuts, marshmallows & grated coconut as well as the deconstructed apple crumble with Calvados creme anglaise (RM23 for each terrifically textured treat; & yes, the latter is the perfect partner for an actual glass of apple brandy). Of course, given its pedigree, Flint is a thriving powerhouse for wine that scores for value & satisfaction. Service is gracious & generous; many thanks to Flint for having us here.

Flint Restaurant & Bar
24 Persiaran Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. 
Open Tues-Sun: Drinks (& light bites, soon), 3pm-5pm. Dinner, 5pm-11pm. Tel: 03-4252-8262

This restaurant is available for bookings under TABLEAPP, which enables customers to make instant reservations at Malaysia's top restaurants, while saving time and money in the process. Reserve your table at this restaurant by clicking here.