D'Sens @ Dusit Thani Bangkok
June 19, 2013
Reputedly one of Thailand's top French establishments, with a lovely view of Bangkok from the 22nd floor of the Dusit Thani hotel.
D'Sens was first launched in collaboration with France's Pourcel twin brothers, who claim the distinction of being the youngest chefs to receive three Michelin stars for their restaurant, Les Jardin Des Sens, in Montpellier.
D'Sens has a terrific current chef in Christian Ham, who toiled previously in Paris' Taillevent & Hong Kong's L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.
Expect lip-smacking Gallic delights; pan-fried free-range pigeon with foie gras, legs ballottines, yellow chanterelle pickles & muscat reduction (about RM180) made us moan to the maitre d' that we can't find anything this amazing at KL's French eateries.
The finest frog legs (RM50) _ meaty & jaw-droppingly juicy, served as a fricassee with sun-dried tomatoes, southern French ratatouille & pesto sauce.
Devilish decadence: Whole-glazed quail (RM160), staggeringly stuffed with duck liver & served with potato mousseline, richly remarkable.
Complimentary cauliflower soup to put smiles on our faces.
Rewind: the amuse bouche of truffled artichoke mousse.
D'Sens petit fours: macarons & more. Not as memorable as the main courses, but the main dessert menu includes pleasures like chestnut confit & green apple mille-feuille with calvados & cinnamon ice cream.
Wish we had more stomach space to try other dishes at D'Sens, especially the duck liver ravioli with Madeira wine, braised Swiss chard & white truffle foam.
Dusit Thani's cocktails are irresistibly creative. This spicy Thai one, "Siam Sunray" was created by mixologist Khun Surawsak Puntalsong, comprising Smirnoff vodka, Malibu, coconut syrup, Thai lime leaves, galingal, red chilli & soda.
Butterscotch Martini (vodka, gold butterscotch schnapps, white creme de cacao).
Have a nightcap at the bar table, an aquarium-like structure filled with fish.
Reservations are likely not needed, since there were only about five occupied tables on a weeknight. A shame, since service is spectacularly polished here.
Dusit Thani Hotel, Bangkok, Thailand.