Cowboy Burger @ SS15 Subang & Burger Bar @ Wangsa Maju

January 23, 2014

It's the showdown of two suburban eateries that have latched on to the burger bandwagon, both launched with guns blazing to supply their take on this trend. Let's start with SS15's new kid in town Cowboy Burger, helmed by friendly sheriff James Cheong.

Cowboy is proud of its pork burgers, relying on antibiotic-free meat for its charbroiled patties & creating recipes like the "Very Hot Piggy Burger," crowned with natural cheddar & grilled tomato & smeared with a sticky, sweet-savoury sauce that contains cili padi & lemongrass.

The combination works well enough; Cowboy's fare is fairly priced too, with this burger, fries & a salad clocking in at RM14.80++.

Cowboy's chef is a Malaysian who spent several years in Tokyo, so there are Japanese influences in the food here. The tonkatsu burger (RM13.80++) is well-executed too, topped with Cowboy's own tonkatsu sauce & naga-negi onions.

Special mention to the dipping sauce for the fries, an addictive one infused with mustard's pungent wallop.

The menu is extensive; besides chicken, beef & vegetarian burgers, there are also pork meatballs that can be topped with cheddar or berry sauce (RM8.80++), plus hot dogs, basic pastas, fish & chips, onion rings, nachos & chicken wings.

Bacon ice cream (RM4.80++) is available too, a vanilla flavour laced with plenty of pleasantly chewy meat.

Next up, heading into the wilderness of Wangsa Maju, where Burger Bar operates near the LRT station.

Burger Bar tries to pack as many burgers into its menu as possible too. The char siew pork burger features a regular patty topped with char siew gravy that tastes like a mild, unmemorable teriyaki sauce; still, at RM9.90, it's a budget-friendly option. There's another pork burger here topped with crispy salted fish that could fare better.

Chicken burger with a Caesar salad inspiration, topped with boiled egg & dressing (RM10.90). Creamy, but could be punchier in flavour. Decent enough to satisfy a simple burger craving though.

Beef with ginger mayo & an egg add-on (RM14.90). The Asian inspiration for the sauce is interesting, though the flavours for this also shine a little less than expected.

Miso salmon burger (RM19.90). Burger Bar has also opened another outlet at Kuchai Lama; even though we're nitpicking, it's likely this place will perform solidly in its neighbourhoods. The people behind the bar seem to work hard, so we wish them well.

Beer is available at Burger Bar, helping it live up better to the "bar" part of its name.

Cowboy Burger
25, Jalan SS15/4B, Subang Jaya
Open 1130am-1030pm, except Mondays. Tel: 03-5611-9963

Burger Bar
27, Jalan 14/27B, Desa Setapak, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-6732-6252

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