Le Palais, Taipei

October 2, 2019

Taipei's sole three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Palais prides itself on Cantonese fare that's elegantly, exceptionally executed. The crispy roast duck is a prime example, torched with fragrant rice wine by the table for terrific theatrics, served first in pancakes of varying textures and flavours, meant to meticulously complement different parts of the duck. The remainder of the duck flesh emerges in beautifully succulent slices, while the bones are used for a soup of thin noodles that's hearty and heartwarming, submerged with tender chunks of Taiwanese yam. For duck devotees, this is a bucket-list dish.

The barbecue pork also sets itself apart from conventional Malaysian char siu, relying on shoulder meat for a firm richness; morsels of that can also be found lusciously sauced in baked bun that's yieldingly crisp. Also from the dim sum menu are classics prepared with accomplished skill, resulting in impressively thin skin for the steamed dumplings stuffed with chicken and abalone, as well as the rice rolls filled with shrimp and Chinese doughnuts. End your meal with almond milk, made fresh daily, aromatic with a pleasurably grainy-nutty creaminess.

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