New Menu: Vantador, Desa Sri Hartamas
October 2, 2018
By EDKL Writer A.A.
For a scintillating duet of seafood-based starters, order the mackerel together with the tiger prawn capellini - the delicately ambrosial sous-vide crustacean crowns a firm-to-the-bite twirl of chilled blanched pasta, made aromatic with nuances of truffles and briny with pearls of salmon roe, rounded out with the spice of pink peppercorns and umami of a dashi stock (RM35).
It takes a skilled sense of craftsmanship to come up with a compelling version of foie gras that makes the liver-loving experience feel fresh again: Encased in a blood orange dome for citrus overtones, the torchon-soft foie parfait is lusciously laced with marsala wine and brandy, paired not with mere toast but cheese grissini, each crunchy breadstick spiked with Spanish pimenton (RM45).
The wagyu beef tataki would be noteworthy purely on its own, oozing full-bodied suppleness from each slice of the marble-score-seven striploin, but what makes it extra-memorable are its accompaniments - panko-crumbed sweetbread (so few restaurants in KL serve sweetbread, it's almost a miracle when one does), Spanish padron peppers and saffron mayonnaise - contemporary tapas at their most satisfyingly sophisticated (RM52).
For a deep dose of decadence, dive in for more seafood as your main event. The uni pasta relies on top-flight Japanese sea urchin not merely for the linguine's topping but for its luxurious sauce too (RM120), while the Pacific scallops surface in full-fleshed, sink-your-teeth-into-this glory, resting on textured polenta cakes laden with truffle bearnaise and micro greens, the ideal coupling of produce from ocean and land (RM138).Â
The most head-turning stunner, however, is probably the Boston lobster pasta, cooked alluringly in beurre monte melted butter and laid seductively whole over spinach tagliatelle, sauteed indulgently with morsels of bone marrow, imbued with the subtle tang of lemon butter sauce for the ultimate manifestation of marine cuisine fantasiesÂ (RM190).
Though seafood is clearly a bright spot, Vantador's meat courses might be the shining stars for most customers. From poultry to sheep, the kitchen pumps plenty of pleasure into the protein - cured duck breast is cooked medium-rare, yielding crisp skin and sumptuous flesh, completed with an exceptional ensemble of gingerbread crumbs, piquillo pepper coulis and compressed heirloom tomato (RM60), while the lamb loin confiture, first sous-vide cooked before being pan-seared, is rendered marvellously complex with a medley ofÂ pumpkin puree, roasted fennel bulb, scallions,Â apricot, raisin and walnuts, bound together by a velvetyÂ chocolate sauce (RM95).
Cavernously spread out over multiple levels, Vantador works well for a long night of lingering over potent potions.Â
The bar boasts several of its own original concoctions that cocktail enthusiasts should consider - true to its name, the Burnt is strikingly lit up with flaming sambuca in the skin of a passion fruit, bringing the heat up on a blend of blue curacao and rum (RM46).Â
Also imaginatively intriguing, the Siamese-inflected Pad Thai brings lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves to vodka, mingled with Thai spices, topped with air-dried beef in an homage to the bovine specialities of this space (RM45).
Asian influences also steal the limelight for gin-based cocktails with flowery and fruity flourishes - theÂ Gin N' Roses (RM38; gin and tonic with Japanese cucumber slices and fresh red roses) and theÂ Screwpine (RM40; gin, pandan-infused syrup and half-cut passion fruit). With these, Vantador is the venue for cocktails in Desa Sri Hartamas.
Many thanks to Vantador for having us back.
38, Jalan 25/70a, Desa Sri Hartamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 6pm-1230am. Tel:Â Â Tel:Â 03-6211-5588
This feature first appeared onÂ eatdrinkkl.com
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