Cocott' @ The Greens, Taman Tun Dr Ismail
February 15, 2017
Fans of French fare, check out Cocott', where everything from crusty house-baked bread to beef bourguignon is served in small, cast-iron cocottes for feel-good, fuss-free communal feasting - Rui-Yang Monico (an alumnus of the top-rated Ecole hoteliere de Lausanne school of hospitality), Geoffroi Herin (who formerly cooked at Annecy-le-Vieux's two-Michelin-star Le Clos des Sens) & their young team have cultivated a beautifully distinctive sanctuary for soulful roasts, stews & casseroles.
Cocott's oeuvre is an ode to the rich, robust flavours that form the primary colours of this cuisine; start with blowtorched sardines, which pack a cured punch to enliven the palate (RM24 nett), coupled with classic ratatouille of stewed Provencal vegetables & Parmesan crumbs (RM22) & a mixed leaves salad with the uplift of a honey, lime & garlic vinaigrette (RM17).
Routinely refined staples like pan-seared foie gras emerge with a casual flair, jazzed up with tamarind jam & pomegranates (RM42). But while Cocott' may make French food less intimidating for the Malaysian patron, a mindful focus on fresh produce & time-honoured, cooking-from-scratch techniques remains the kitchen's lifeblood, typified by the savoury, sink-your-teeth-into-this sumptuousness of chicken fricassee (RM28) & beef rib-eye with Montpellier butter (RM46). Pair the protein with smooth, soft potato mousse with confit baby potatoes & cheese (RM21) & rice pilaf tinged subtly with chicken broth & thyme (RM10).
Spice-infused pineapples with coconut custard & lime jelly (RM18), chocolate liegeois with caramelised peanuts & whipped cream (RM18) & roasted mango with shortbread crumble & kaffir lime leaves (RM19) bring tropical flourishes to the sweet finale while remaining true to Cocott's consistently enjoyable interpretation of a French experience. This is a venue to watch.
1-1, Greens Terrace, The Greens, Jalan Wan Kadir 3, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Tuesday, 6pm-10pm; Wednesday to Sunday, 12pm-10pm. Closed Mondays. Tel: 03-2712-4481
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