XXVI Contemporary Dining, Bangsar
August 7, 2020
XXVI has a number of recipes worth investigating, fuelled by European fundamentals with East Asian flourishes.
Confit of salmon is beautifully complemented with ingredients that bring lively dynamics to this dish, from ikura to orange and beetroot. The fish is moist and tender but could be more lightly cooked to keep it smoother and lusciously delicate (RM48).
The unagi is similarly a little overdone, so it's firmer than necessary, layered with mild-mannered scrambled eggs, rescued by al dente risotto in subtle tomato sauce, with ohba leaves and kizami nori seaweed for understated Japanese flavours (RM52).
We're always on the lookout for bouillabaisse. XXVI's has the sweet brininess that makes each spoonful of broth enjoyable, crowned with the requisite rouille, with prawns as the star of the bowl; the barramundi and mussels could be fresher (RM58).
The 2015 Tomas Cusine Auzells is an exemplary match for all of the above, especially the bouillabaisse, a bright blended white with Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and more.
It may be worth returning; the pork pot-au-feu, smoked duck leg and dessert of black sesame cheese curd all sound promising.
XXVI Contemporary Dining
26, Jalan Telawi 5, Bangsar, 59100 Kuala Lumpur.
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