Willow Tree @ Hartamas

February 21, 2012

A sixty-second stroll from Souled Out, this Hartamas bistro looks like a pub, but it's setting its sights on more ambitious fare than mere chicken wings.

Willow Tree's Moroccan-raised chef Adi Elhadi cultivated his culinary career in London; unsurprisingly, his food could be considered British classics with Mediterranean undercurrents. But whatever its provenance, this garlic-mushroom tart _ glazed with warm, oozy goat cheese _ should prove undesirable only to vampires & people wary of strong flavors.

Freshly prepared creamy chicken liver parfait with onion chutney. Another recipe that might be a turn-off if you prefer mild-tasting dishes; moist bordering on mushy, the parfait is unmistakably made of offal, with a full-on fowl flavor that some will call foul.

Salmon fishcakes with a tomato-&-herb salsa. From the bread to the fishcakes, Willow Tree bakes & makes many items in its own kitchen. Give them a B+ for both the effort & the results (that goes for the efficient service team too).

Honey-roasted duck breast with coriander, caramelized beetroot, apricots & almond couscous. Prices here are exemplary in this era of escalating costs; customers who choose prudently can partake of a three-course meal _ including this duck _ for RM60 or less.

New Zealand leg of lamb with mushrooms, veggies & dauphinoise potatoes; essentially as good as what Hartamas' more established hangouts offer. While nothing here knocked our socks off, Willow Tree is a peaceful, pork-free alternative to Finnegan's & Jarrod & Rawlins.

Ice cream with chocolate sauce, tinged with 25-year-old balsamic vinegar for a sweet-sour bite.

Wine is sold by the glass & bottle. A low-key, easy-drinking variety, whatever this was.

Tom Collins & Whisky Sour. Decent cocktails too, not watered down or anything.

Taylor's Port & Archers Peach Schnapps.

Sunday Roasts are also available at Willow Tree, costing RM45 for adults & RM25 for kids. Expect hearty helpings of rib-eye beef with Yorkshire pudding.

Willow Tree @ Desa Sri Hartamas,
Wisma Rapid, Jalan 30/70A, Desa Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-6201-2330
Open daily through midnight.