Wild Honey @ Pavilion Kuala Lumpur
November 13, 2016
Brilliant news for acolytes of all-day breakfasts: Wild Honey, Singapore's marquee name for elaborate egg ensembles - scrambled, braised, poached, baked, poached & fried - rounded out with house-baked bagels, buttery brioches & more, finally embarks into Malaysia this month. Wild horses won't drag KL's legion of cafe-goers away from this lovingly crafted, eclectically furnished outpost; seize a seat perhaps at the custom-built European oak table beside Australian painter Melanie McCollin-Walker's exquisite panels of artwork, & earmark an hour or two to savour one of the city's most satisfyingly prepared brunches.
Wild Honey nails the foundation of a fulfilling meal - recipes meticulously created by co-founder Stephanie Hancock, her family & collaborators, showcasing a sterling comprehension of flavours & textures, relying on a bounty of top-drawer produce & irreproachable execution. This is comfort food that'll leave everyone eager for more; start with the peerless Barbary (RM36++) - tender hash filled with confit of duck leg, crowned with a sunny-side-up & crispy shallots, surrounded by a moat of hollandaise sauce spiked with pink grapefruit for a bit of uplift. It all comes together irresistibly, almost like baby food for adults.
Similar to Wild Honey in Mandarin Gallery & Scotts Square, the menu is cleaved into categories like meat, fish & vegetarian, with offerings named for cities, countries & regions, from 'Melbourne' (eggs with potato pancakes) to 'Mexico' (eggs in burritos), 'Tunisian' (eggs with merguez) to 'Scandinavian' (eggs with wild salmon). Distinctively detailed combos include the Levant (RM42++; baked eggs richly topped with tahini, schug hot sauce, avjar pepper relish, harissa & labneh, partnered with grilled halloumi cheese, vine tomatoes, spiced black olives & za'atar bread) & the Greek (RM40++; open-face omelette with a core of aromatic lamb moussaka, blanketed with bechamel, fumed parsley, Japanese eggplant, shaved onions & Greek cheese), channelling clean, clear nuances & pleasingly mellow complexities - entirely enjoyable, neither over-seasoned nor bland.
Everything on the menu can be ordered through 10pm - who needs dinner when Wild Honey serves breakfast salads & burgers? The Curly Kale is a refreshing reinvention of the Caesar, with the juicy kale finding memorable companions in a poached egg, white anchovies, dried cranberries, sweet potato ribbons, garlic brioche croutons & anchovy lemon dressing (RM32), while the burger is protein-packed with moist Aussie beef, pastrami, fried egg, zucchini relish & chipotle aioli (RM40).
Desserts aren't an afterthought, with temptations ranging from an orange chiffon cake with chocolate ganache (conceived by Stephanie's step-sister) to raspberry sorbet with royal honey. A special mention should go to the scones - these rank among our favourites in KL, served warm & fresh in a threesome of plain, with dates & with cranberries, sumptuously complemented by excellent clotted cream, French butter & a choice of kitchen-made lemon curd or raspberry, apricot or strawberry jam (RM14++). No complaints about the coffee or the wine either; after seven successful years in Singapore, it's no surprise that the show-runners of Wild Honey know precisely what they're doing - their foray into KL deserves to be another smash.
Wild Honey Malaysia
#06-645, Level Six, Pavilion Shopping Mall, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.
Daily, 10am-11pm (last orders 10pm). Tel: 03-2110-1626
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