D K L E

Timbre & Row Cafe @ Doraisamy

January 5, 2016


The Timbre Group, which runs multiple live music restaurants in Singapore, is rocking up at The Row with its first Malaysian foray, welcoming local performers to the stage from Wednesdays to Saturdays. But even if you're not a fan of gigs, the kitchen & bar at this friendly spot may be worth checking out; try a beefed-up thin-crust pizza (RM39) with half-&-half toppings - Cheeseburger on one side (chili con carne, onions, peppers, gherkins, mustard, ketchup, cheddar cheese & pomodoro sauce) & Philly Cheese Steak on the other (sauteed beef, Spanish onions, mushrooms, peppers, & cheddar & provolone cheeses) - both come richly blanketed & reliably evoke their namesakes in flavour. Happy-hour cocktails prove inviting; the Frozen Mango Margarita & Lychee Martini clock in at RM14 & RM13 respectively early in the evening - their potency feels fair for their prices.

Timbre At The Row
60, 62 & 64, The Row, Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala Lumpur. Mon-Sat, 6pm-late. Tel: 03-2602-2623

Row Cafe is another recent entry on the revived Doraisamy Road, though it's not a formal member of The Row's main strip of F&B businesses. We were initially sceptical about it, since it seemed reminiscent of the boisterous watering holes that epitomised Asian Heritage Row's slide into sleaze several years ago. But its greet-&-meet team at the entrance was sincerely enthusiastic enough to coax us inside - the menu was a pleasant surprise, with a handful of ambitious dishes to complement the run-of-the-mill crowd-pleasers. The foie gras with a delicately creamy avocado panna cotta, poached pears & balsamic reduction was capably executed, at a cost of RM39.90 that hurled us back to 2005. Other potential highlights range from pan-seared yellow-fin tuna with basil pistachio puree (RM23.90) to roasted cod fish with saffron risotto (RM69.90). The house red wine (whose identity remains unidentified on the menu) is an innocuous choice at RM18 per glass. Live music is also offered.

Row Cafe
13, 15 & 17, Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 11am-3am. Tel: 016-441-6864

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