Tatsu revised 3

August 19, 2011

Tatsu: Round Four. Earlier entries: April 1, July 8 & July 15.

Amaebi sweet shrimp in a ripe avocado shell with spicy pollock roe, marinated in herbed olive oil. One of the most gorgeous starters we've enjoyed in recent memory. Every scoop supplied a soft, savory mix of top-tier ingredients.

More mentaiko to feed our mania, lightly & impeccably broiled on its outer surface.

Queen crab chawanmushi. A big bowl of piping-hot pleasure. We ordered this because we were curious about queen crab, but it tasted similar enough to king crab.

Japanese mizuna mustard leaves & fried bean curd with mesclun greens. Another whopping portion; not the night's most memorable dish, but the healthiest.

Deep-fried sea bream neck. We had to use our fingers to polish the flesh off the bones, but it was worth the effort, thanks to the superbly sweet flesh enhanced with ponzu bitter orange sauce.

Seafood & veggies stewed in tomato concasse. Mussels, clams & scallops, complemented by a gentle gravy that was only subtly tangy, keeping the spotlight on the fresh seafood.

Teppanyaki foie gras & parmesan cheese omelet with bonito flakes. Could be better; the egg wasn't fluffy enough and the bits of liver within made minimal impact.

Shochikubai sake (Seishu, Kyoto).

InterContinental Hotel, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.