Spasso Milano @ Pavilion
January 15, 2012
Spasso Milano has moved from Ampang to Pavilion, looking to lure a larger crowd hankering for Italian fare on the mall's sixth floor.
The biggest surprise: the restaurant now serves pork! Nevertheless, its famed afternoon antipasti buffets should remain available, though we're not certain whether prices will be hiked.
Fileja, a doughy Calabrian delight _ handmade with durum wheat, topped with grilled pork belly & tossed in garlic, extra virgin olive oil, oregano & chili flakes. An "aglio olio" preparation, one of the most pleasing pastas we've had this year (OK, sure, it's only January).
Air-dried speck ham & smoked scamorza cheese pizza. You know how Domino's & Pizza Hut frequently promote new creations that they claim will be deliciously meaty or divinely cheesy? Spasso Milano's wood-fired wonder fulfills those descriptions.
Pork Valdostana _ escalopes topped with baked ham & fontina cheese. Warning: Spasso Milano isn't the place for healthy eating. Besides the obvious preponderance of pasta, pork & cheese, the sodium level in many of these recipes is more than perceptible.
Traditional spirits of Italy _ from grappa to limoncello _ are offered by the glass (hurray!). Allegrini Grappa Di Amarone & Limoncello, Agriarti.
Grappa Di Brunello, Banfi 2009 & Grappa Di Casalferro. They'll put hair on your chest!
Bergami, Agriarti & Liquiri, Agriarti, for a honeyed finish.
Teething troubles are evident; the service team is often diligent but occasionally dazed, resulting in the erratic delivery of dishes. It'll get better, we're confident of that.
Last orders are at 10:30 pm daily. Brilliant!
Level Six, Pavilion, Kuala Lumpur.