Soul Sacrifice @ Desa Pandan
October 6, 2016
Named for a classic Santana instrumental, Soul Sacrifice makes a smooth entry into Desa Pandan this month, exuding a genuine neighbourhood charm, with children scampering past the kitchen while their parents chat over comfort food & coffee.
Affable chef Muhamad Cyrus does a good job of devising dishes that balance familiar flavours with a bit of attitude. Egg recipes, for example, bypass conventional routes - Cup of Nations wraps a boiled egg in minced meat & breadcrumbs over thickly whipped purple sweet potatoes, creamed leek sauce & a shot of sambal for an elaborate reinterpretation of Scotch eggs (RM19), while Duck Hunt studs a fluffy omelette with stir-fried duck & plums, plated with toast & beetroot puree (RM15).
The fare feels honest & nourishing, sculpted with sturdy produce. The Nyonya Siakap is a fish a grandmother could love, its steamed fillet topped with textured sambal over brown rice & stir-fried vegetables for homely textures (RM16), while Seven A Side scores points for partnering Mediterranean-inspired beef kebabs with winning accompaniments like quinoa tabbouleh, toasted flatbread & garlic sauce (RM17) - clearly targeting Malaysian palates while striving to broaden the culinary horizons of customers. Cyrus promises to introduce more soon, with new dishes every couple of weeks to keep the crowds coming back.
The coffee? Even more satisfying than expected, with pleasurably mellow & gentle notes throughout - try both the flat white (RM10) & the filter (RM12). Cyrus & Soul Sacrifice's barista Izaz have been at this for a long time - they were part of the Artisan Roast team way back in 2011, when AR was still a little-known set-up in Ampang's Yayasan Seni - & they now have a spot when their experience seems to shine brighter than ever.
38, Jalan 4/76C, Desa Pandan, Kuala Lumpur.
Soft launch hours: Mon, Tues, Fri, 730am-730pm; Sat-Sun, 8am-8pm. Note that kitchen may close by 4pm.
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