Sou Omakase Dining @ The Gardens Mall, Mid Valley
March 14, 2016
This new restaurant specialises exclusively in the art of omakase - there's no a la carte menu, so patrons leave it entirely to Yokohama-born executive chef Fukuchi & his team to prepare set lunches & dinners that represent a complete journey through Japanese cooking. Lunch starts from RM88+ for a five-course meal, while dinner can breach RM320+ for 10 courses.
As with any omakase, the selection will evolve according to what's fresh & seasonal, with twists that illustrate innovative surprises. For these opening weeks, the amuse bouche supplies a strong start - savoury-creamy scallop mousse layered with plum jelly, prawn sashimi & kelp. We also like the foie gras chawanmushi with its substantial slice of liver & the salmon trout mille-feuille on ice with a centre of jellied cabbage, topped with roe & asparagus. All pretty & pleasing, elaborate & nuanced.
Sashimi proves satisfactory - each fish is presented in its own unique vessel, with intriguing solid & liquid condiments of umami-rich dark soy mousse & citrus-tinged white soy sauce. For sushi, the star is the chutoro - luscious, medium-fatty tuna. Perhaps in the future, it'd be encouraging to see other cuts of seafood beyond the tried-&-tested basics of salmon & snapper.
Cod fish is a can't-fail as usual, boasting buttery flesh & crisp skin in a light teriyaki sauce, paired with an equally tasty bowl of soaked seaweed & mountain yam. Tuna collar is a treat too, terrifically moist & delicate in flavour. Grilled abalone provides a firm bite, matched with cheese sauce in a strange coupling, accompanied more effectively by crunchy-sweet bamboo shoots.
Lamb or beef? We vote for the former, with its lip-smacking & finger-licking succulence; the bubbling beef would be compelling comfort food if only the meat weren't so gamy. So-so miso soup & a less-than-imaginative dessert platter of cheesecake, fruit jelly & chocolate ice cream end the proceedings with a whimper. Still, there are enough highlights in the overall meal to make this venue worth considering (trivia: Sou is part of KL's Yuzu family of mall-based restaurants). Service is fast-paced & cordial.
Sou Omakase Dining
G247, Ground Floor, The Gardens Mall, Mid Valley City, Kuala Lumpur.
Take the Riverview centre exit out of the mall, walk to your left toward Gardens Residences/South Tower.
Daily, 1130am-3pm, 6pm-10pm. Tel: 03-2202-1133
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