Rococo @ Melange Boutique Hotel, Bukit Bintang

January 25, 2016

An atmospheric aerie with artistic affectations, Rococo supplies a cafe-bistro setting that's both serene & secluded, perched on the rooftop of Kuala Lumpur's new Melange Boutique Hotel, crammed with Ghost armchairs & a centrepiece table full of freshly baked boulangerie-style loaves, cakes, scones & macarons, compellingly complemented by a seventh-floor perspective of Bukit Bintang's intricate urban sprawl & a soothing Saturday-afternoon soundtrack of Crowded House's timeless tunes.

It's a distinctive destination that deserves to draw more than merely hotel guests; the ambiance is alluring, service is amiable, & the kitchen makes an effort to leave a positive impression with thoughtfully crafted brunch fare, sandwiches & warm meals.

Rococo's version of a Big Breakfast, the Grande Rococo (RM28), comes in two parts - a house-made grilled chicken sausage patty (tender & well-seasoned) capped with a free-range egg, accompanied by rocket leaves & sourdough bread, followed by pancakes with flavoured butter (we chose raspberry, but lemon or garlic parsley are also available). With so much bread being showcased, you'll find no fewer than eight separate sandwich recipes - we picked a flavoursome one filled with bresaola, fontina cheese, onions & rosemary-infused olive oil (RM20), though it was a difficult decision, since we were also tempted by combos like Alaskan snow crab with beef pepperoni, avocado & coriander; chicken with Greek yoghurt, garlic & mint; smoked salmon with dill & own-made mayo; plus a vegetarian's special of pumpkin, eggplant, roasted sesame seeds & melted toma cheese. The rest of Rococo's repertoire includes classic pastas (vongole, bolognese, carbonara & pesto), but if you need carbs, order the Middle Eastern-inflected saffron basmati rice topped with succulent lamb ribs (RM27). Beverages comprise small glasses of juice (a powerful-tasting blend of jackfruit, pineapple & lemon costs RM6) & cups of coffee, capably executed.

Rococo does interesting versions of both a red velvet cake, sumptuously moist & somewhat chocolatey, & an Earl Grey chiffon, delicately aromatic in its smoky nuances of tea. But we'd probably skip the dark chocolate cookie next time; unlike nearly everything else at Rococo, it lacked depth, richness & character.

Rococo Cafe Restaurant
Melange Boutique Hotel, 14, Jalan Rembia, Off Tengkat Tong Shin, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. 
Daily, 11am-11pm. Hotel: 03-2141-8828

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