Pinch Bistro @ Bangkung, Bangsar

December 9, 2015

A pinch of Paris, a dash of suburban sophistication: This European-inspired bistro stamps its mark on Bangsar's Bangkung street with a broad repertoire that bounds from steak tartare to pork ragu pappardelle. Founded by chef David & his compatriots Chye & Matthieu, this is a neighbourhood hangout with a smooth, easy-going charm & soothing, chilled-out vibe.

The menu is engaging, albeit with several tweaks needed for some dishes. The Creole prawns & squid with watermelon-mint salad (RM45) would benefit from slightly fresher crustaceans & perhaps a rebalancing of the seafood-fruit ratio & more robust sauce. On the other hand, the grilled chorizo burger (RM35) packs plenty of punch, maybe too much - the house-made patty is moist & mightily seasoned; matched with melted cheese, crispy bacon & salted fries, that's a lot of in-your-mouth savouriness.

 There were many other temptations that we considered ordering - barramundi papillotte, fennel-roasted pork loin with potato gratin, herbed lamb steak with minted peas, duck confit with peaches, spring chicken with marmalade glaze. But in the end, the siren call of boeuf bourguignon (RM49) proved irresistible - tender slow-cooked beef with bacon, mushrooms & mashed potatoes; the braise could have displayed a deeper richness, but this still worked well enough as comfort food after a long day, paired with a rewardingly solid set of wines - Pinch deliberately steers clear of conventional house pours.

Pinch Bistro & Bar
57 Jalan Bangkung, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur. Tues-Fri, 12pm-12am; Sat-Sun, 9am-12am. Tel: 03-2201-5766

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