L'Heritage: MIGF @ Royale Chulan Hotel, Kuala Lumpur

October 6, 2009

The paint is scarcely dry at L'Heritage, the city's newest French restaurant, which evokes impressions of the rooms at the Palace of Versailles.

The MIGF menu here is RM239++ with wine. Mid-priced for the festival.

Salmon and trout tartare with parmesan tuille, rucola and sorc l'tranche. The fish was superbly fresh, while the other ingredients provided a fine interplay of tastes and textures.

Quail leg confit with beetroot, languedoc gratin and avocado volute. The most tender quail ever, paired with phenomenally creamy accompaniments.

Stone-grilled Wagyu beef, petit romaine old pot green peppercorn sauce. A fine piece of meat; we often skip these seemingly unexciting beef dishes, but this was a reminder that classic recipes can still provide pleasure.

Oven-baked red mullet, sweetbread pallaid, capers relish and foie gras emulsion. An enjoyably complex dish with complicated flavours.

Mille-feuille of berries sabayon with fragrant mint ice cream. The kataifi-like pastry layers were remarkably crisp, making this a crunchy delight sweetened by lusciously ripe berries and silky smooth ice cream.

Albert Bichot Cotes du Rhone (France). A decent light-bodied wine.

Royale Chulan Hotel.