FOOK, Sultan Ismail Road

December 27, 2018

Fuelled by eclectic East Asian influences, FOOK's fare shows sparks of potential, though its food is outshone for now by its shimmering setting and sparkling service. 

Exploring this new venue (which takes over from NEO Tamarind), we tried out a trio of starters to see whether we should venture further into the menu - the F.U. (Fake Unagi) Sushi sounded like a lot of fun, but the catfish substitute for the eel was overcooked and one-note in its contrived sweetness, draped over bland rice (RM22); options from the current Christmas and New Year launch menu (available through January 5) include century eggs that could have been significantly creamier (RM25) and snow fish consomme with black truffles that should have been more aromatic (RM35). 

Cocktails like the Groovy Baby (RM32; dry beer, grapefruit cinnamon compote, grapefruit puree) and Wake Up And Fook (RM36; soju, coffee liqueur, espresso) may have thrilled patrons five years ago but won't advance KL's current cocktail scene.

We still love the hillside ambiance here and would aim to return someday - while we weren't inspired to dig deeper this time, the itik kut teh, crispy black mussel pancake, buckwheat noodle pho, roasted chilli fried rice, spicy red bean curd soup with lobster dumplings, and chocolate mooncake could all merit a complete meal. There's plenty of promise.

19, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 5pm-12am. Tel: 03-2148-3700

This feature first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

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