Derelicte @ Bistro

April 19, 2012

Inspired by the trailer trash fashion line of the film farce "Zoolander," Bistro a Table's degustation dinner for April was a flamboyant fusion of U.S. junk food & French haute cuisine.

Bistro let its hair down & let its service team run wild, popping champagne bottles from a stolen supermarket trolley & presenting seemingly countless courses in burger cartons & doggy-bags.

Buffalo wings? Hot & humongous ones, constructed with the meat of capons _ roosters castrated to make their flesh tastier & fattier. Served with a blue cheese dip.

Pizza, more aromatic than any other we've had this year, topped with two grams of Alba bianchetto truffles, Roma tomato concasse & melted Puglia Burratina buffalo mozzarella. All we wanted to do was hold this plate to our nose and breathe in deeply. Ahhhhh!

Beef jerky in a salad, featuring Master Kobe Grade 11+ air-dried sirloin strips. An intense, indelible combination of savory-smooth beef with creamy cheese, juicy fresh figs & crisp pear.

Some dreary airline-style microwaved meal? Perish the thought.

Mac & cheese, with horse salami for a salty bite & Gruyere cheese, accompanied by stewed peas & turkey bacon. A bit too mushy for me, but carb lovers may find comfort in it.

Alpha-BAT soup. Lobster consomme, with a twist at the base of the broth _ nearly microscopic bits of macaroni, hand-cut by the long-suffering kitchen crew to form the letters "B," "A" & "T" _ representing not Bacon, Apple & Tomato, but Bistro a Table.

The only time we'll find Heinz ketchup here: beef burger with the meat of Tuscan Chianina cows, sandwiched in Tommy Le Baker's brioche with Swiss Emmental cheese, cornichon, ale mustard, aioli, truffled garlic & rosemary chips.

What lies within the paper bag? Our favorite course of all ...

A hot dog like no other, with a sausage so soft & honeyed, made of pure goose foie gras steeped in 30-year-old Armagnac. Topped with stewed apple chutney & served in toasted pain au lait.

Deconstructed smoked salmon: salmon ice cream & smoked ice cream with dill dressing. Fun.

Passion fruit cheese cake souffle with white choc. A supporting star in this tour de force meal, it's on Bistro's current a la carte menu.

Most outstanding chocolate dessert for 2012 so far: Valrhona Guanaja brownie with Tahitian vanilla bean creme anglais. Again, no chewing is necessary. Also on April's a la carte menu.

Courses were paired with champagne, running the gamut from from Veuve Clicquot Brut & Yannick Thonet Brut to Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve & Moet & Chandon Rose.

Bistro a Table,
Section 17, Petaling Jaya.