BLVD House @ Naza Tower, Persiaran KLCC
May 18, 2016
Endowed with a handsomely polished setting that evokes a cosmopolitan brasserie & a pretty tempting food selection that spotlights contemporary-minded fare, BLVD House seems poised to be a seductive destination for restaurant lovers at the recently launched Naza Tower in KL's city centre.
Chef Pele Kuah's menu is extensive enough that three visits might be required to really explore it, drawing from his experience at establishments as eclectic as the Equatorial Hotel, Elegantology at Publika & the Movida Group. The visual standout is likely the Bean-Can Roasted Free-Range Chicken (RM60), a witty revision of beer-can chicken, featuring a BBQ whole chicken that's set alight at the table, engulfed in flames for spectacular effect before being chopped up & served with baked beans.
But for a meal that leaves a more lingeringly impressive impression in terms of flavour, try the timbale of foie gras & unagi, a luscious liver-&-eel coupling that tastes as memorably ultra-decadent as it looks & sounds; upping the ante, the platter also features a thick, tender slab of grilled ox tongue, balanced out with roasted heirloom cherry tomatoes & cold angel hair pasta with truffle dressing. It costs a budget-burning RM150, but if there's one practical consolation, it can be shared by two patrons.
Lamb devotees can check out the barbecued Denver ribs (RM75), majestically meaty & succulent, with a beautiful sweet-savoury marinade & sauce that's meant to evoke the caramelisation of Chinese char siu. It had us licking our lips & fingers, almost ignoring everything else on the plate (for the record: masala onion potato mousse, crispy potato nest & mussel ragout).
We have to appreciate a venue that serves caveman chunks of bone marrow, roasted & smothered in oxtail marmalade gravy, accompanied by a leafy parsley salad & house-baked bread (RM35). A diet-destroyer by any sane measure, but so irresistible.
The sole order that missed the mark for us was the Maine lobster penne, suffocated by an Asian-inspired chilli tomato sauce with egg & ginger (think chilli crabs) that did no favours for this particular crustacean (RM65). Still, we're curious about BLVD's other offerings, which leap from a New York-namedropping mantou sandwich with lamb sausage, tomato salsa, pepper jack cheese & BBQ sauce to desserts like Ovomaltine beignets & banana jelly-stuffed croissants. Cocktails also showcase sparks of creativity - Margaritas with blackberries & spicy jalapeno syrup (RM34) & Bloody Marys with streaky beef bacon (RM34).
Ground Floor, NAZA Tower, Platinum Park, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur.
Mon-Thurs, 12pm-11pm; Fri-Sat, 12pm-1am; Sun, 11am-11pm. Tel: 03-2630-9999
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