May 8, 2019
Soaring 50 levels above the streets, Blackbyrd offers a fresh, eagle’s-eye perspective of KL's F&B landscape, a handsome harbinger of hopes to turn the highest reaches of the city's Platinum Park hub into a panoramic dining-and-drinking haven.
Blackbyrd is an eyrie of eclectic culinary inspirations, spanning the quesadillas of Mexico City to the Korean BBQ beef of Seoul, the burgers with hot sauce of Nashville to the contemporary-style sashimi of Tokyo, the breaded chicken of Piedmont to the bebek goreng of Yogyakarta.
While the menu might reach for the sky, prices feel mercifully down to earth for the Norwegian salmon, hot tea smoked for flesh that's lightly cooked within, brightened with herb gremolata and horseradish mascarpone (RM28), and cavatelli pasta with a buoyantly harmonised ensemble of chopped escargots, porcini mushrooms, pea puree and burrata cheese (RM28).
Blackbyrd heralds a foray into KL by Indonesia's Ismaya Group, which runs Italian and Japanese restaurants, artisan coffee bars and upscale nightlife clubs in Jakarta and other cities, so it's no surprise to see Indonesian influences pepper the repertoire. The Iga Bakar Sambal Idjo makes for a robust-tasting dinner, pairing the succulence of Black Angus short ribs with the spicy punch of green chillies and urap steamed vegetables, rounded out with aromatic gurih rice flavoured with coconut milk (RM90).
Cocktails are capably executed, with a few choices that showcase tinges of bar theatrics, such as the sultry Smoke Screen (RM48; Kraken black-spiced Cointreau, spice syrup, chocolate bitters) and soothing Florence Nightingale (RM48; gin-infused Earl Grey tea, Southern Comfort, kyuri, lemon).
Level 50, Naza Tower, Platinum Park, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 6pm-11pm. Tel: 012-689-8576
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