Bistro a Table revised

June 12, 2011

Bistro a Table: Round Two. Earlier entry: June 9.

Tarragon chicken in house-made duck stock stew. Fowl play is fair game when it hatches a result like this. But first, think of the blandest chicken stew you've ever had, with stringy meat dripping in dishearteningly watery sauce. What you'll find here is the complete opposite, thanks to a decadently flavorful, mop-it-all-up gravy.

It's rare to see a restaurant where even the side dishes should be sampled. Bistro a Table's house salad may be a garden-variety recipe, but these leaves are irreproachably fresh and crisp, tossed in a light, tangy vinaigrette that makes each bite a tasty one. Even better: the steamed French beans, spattered with crunchy hazelnuts.

Most of Bistro a Table's one-page menu has stayed the same so far. After running out of options, we've re-ordered a few of our favorites, such as the Caesar salad soup with duck prosciutto & egg. Know how some things taste terrific the first time, but less so on subsequent occasions? Mercifully, that's not the case here.

A study in contrast: steamed veggies with herb butter for the weight-&-cholesterol watcher, juxtaposed with truffle mashed potatoes for the hedonist that lurks within all of us.

Boston lobster & sea urchin linguine. This swing-for-the-fences recipe gets increasingly indulgent at Bistro a Table. In the beginning, slipper lobster was the crustacean of choice for this pasta. But then, chef Isadora Chai started using scampi instead. Now, it's Boston lobster!

Another repeat: coddled maple syrup egg with crouton dust & Fleur de Sel. Anxious to slurp this up, my hands must have trembled while snapping this shot. The image may be blurry, but thankfully, the taste remains very much vivid in our minds.

Gruyere souffle with slipper lobster bisque. In the weeks to come, Bistro a Table will launch special themes on selected days: degustation dinners on Mondays (reservations required), singles meet-&-mingle sessions on Wednesdays (sure to keep the restaurant's communal table lively) & weekend brunches (let's hope there's lots of bubbly!).

Aussie 220-gram grain-fed Black Angus (marble score 7-8) with horseradish whipped cream. Totally the tummy-filler; customers with small appetites will feel like a python that swallowed a cow after finishing this nicely prepared steak.

Patient people will receive their just desserts. Having enjoyed the alcohol-soaked tiramisu on a previous evening, we were curious to try the "deconstructed" version this time. A little less thrilling, but teetotalers and designated drivers will likely be grateful.

Dragon fruit & coconut pavlova with candied ginger. Here's a paradox: we're indifferent about dragon fruit, we loathe coconut, we have mixed feelings about ginger. So how come this tasted like the perfect pavlova? Pure and delicate in flavor, without being too tart or too sweet, but luxuriously soft in texture.

Chocolate fondant with vanilla creme anglaise. Comfort food for cake lovers; warm, chocolatey creaminess, not cloying at all. We can scarcely wait for future visits here.

Chateau Peyruchet Blanc.

Chateau Peyruchet Rouge 2008.

Terrazas Malbec 2009.

Bistro a Table,
6, Jalan 17/54, PJ Section 17,
Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Tel: 03-7931-2831