Upperhouse Kitchen & Dessert Bar @ Telawi, Bangsar

March 30, 2017

Food that flaunts colour & creativity, served with charm & cheer: Upperhouse hits a high note for its first week in Bangsar.

Chocolate is a cornerstone of the kitchen, employed in unexpected measures: Upperhouse whips up its own handmade pasta di cacao, bringing bittersweet subtleties to ravioli & fettuccine, the former stuffed with flavoursome forest mushrooms & cream cheese, buoyed by a delicate capsicum sauce (RM34), the latter tossed in the manner of a very elaborate spicy aglio olio with garlic, olive oil, chilli flakes, tomatoes, edible flowers & rocket leaves, on a base of sweet potato mousse that rounds out the recipe (RM24). Savour with Callebaut hot chocolate (Arriba 39 percent milk) gently tinged with passionfruit nuances (RM12).

The menu evolves as the day advances: From morning through 6pm, customers may confront a chicken-or-egg proposition - well-prepared chicken schnitzel, simultaneously crisp & tender, coupled with caramelised apples & strawberry vinaigrette (RM32), & an omelette layered with crispy shrimp & beef bacon on sourdough, plus house-made prawn crackers (RM35). In the evening, light bites reign, the likes of mantou with sea salt caramel (RM18) & yuca fries with Dijon mustard aioli (RM13).

Plated desserts prove pretty as any picture: An almond cookie mille-feuille plied with vanilla & orange milk chocolate mousse comes with Upperhouses own hay ice cream (it tastes like tea) on the side (RM26), but we prefer the balanced complexities in the ensemble of carrot cake, jelly & puree, playing off Greek yoghurt, walnuts, honeycomb & burnt honey ice cream (RM23).

Upperhouse Kitchen & Dessert Bar
27-A Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur. Mon-Fri, 11am-10m; Sat-Sun, 9am-10pm.

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